This magnificent, dense plum/purple-colored Pessac-Leognan reveals notes of scorched earth, burning embers, blackberries and truffles. Composed of Merlot and Cabernet Franc from a vineyard gorgeously situated between Malartic Lagraviere and Haut-Bailly, it possesses full-bodied power, a stunningly intense, voluptuous, layered mouthfeel and abundant levels of fruit, glycerin and tannin. The 2009 ranks alongside the magnificent 2000, which is aging at a glacial pace. Unfortunately, proprietress Helene Garcin only produces around 500 cases of this somewhat cult-ish Pessac-Leognan. (RP)
Deep, bright medium red. Roasted, slightly wild aromas of black raspberry, mocha and game complicated by an exotic candied quality. Lush, silky and utterly seamless wine, with compelling concentration and sweetness of fruit. This didn't quite match the Haut-Bailly I tasted before it for lift but there's enough energy here, not to mention noble, fully ripe, mouthdusting tannins, to ensure 10 to 15 years of graceful evolution in bottle. The impression of exotic ripeness returns on the plush, very long finish. Should prove to be the best vintage yet for this property. (ST)
This smolders beautifully from start to finish, showing warm tar, tobacco leaf and steeped black currant fruit, with hints of hot stone and graphite buried deeply on the finish. Deep and long, with lots of character still to emerge. (JM)
The 2009 Branon has a pure bouquet with black cherries, bilberry and just a touch of boot polish. It feels well defined with nicely integrated oak. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, juicy and succulent with a nicely detailed, quite peppery finish with a persistent aftertaste. Based on this performance I might well have under-estimated this Pessac-Léognan. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting. (NM)
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