The 2009 Esprit de Beaucastel Panoplie is more complex than the straight Esprit, and is even more thrilling from bottle than it was from barrel. Today, the Panoplie comes across as very young. Dark cherries, flowers, mint, licorice and tobacco are some of the many notes that take shape in the glass, but ultimately the 2009 is still a very primary wine built on fruit. The 2009 boasts so much pure density that the tannins appear to be nearly buried, but they are there. This is a decidedly huge, dramatic wine from Tablas Creek. The blend is 65% Mourvedre, 26% Grenache and 9% Syrah. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. (AG)
Deep ruby with a bright rim. Floral- and spice-accented aromas of red and dark berries, incense and minerals expand with aeration, picking up a smoky quality. Impressively fresh and pure on the palate, with excellent depth to its sweet raspberry, cherry and floral pastille flavors. Finishes sappy and nervy, with lively notes of candied flowers and star anise. Has the balance to age, but this is also flat-out delicious right now. 95 points (JR)
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