The 2006 Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Auslese smells of mint, black tea and raspberry distillate. The herbal, red berry, and honey concentration on the palate by no means precludes an uncanny sense of mineral presence. Salts and wet stone coat the palate even as citrus, berry, and resinous herbs penetrate with almost frightening intensity and focus. No concessions to cushions on the furniture for lolling about (or to easy early drinking) have been made. Lock this tightly-wound and -stitched super-essence of Brucke away for at least 15 years before revisiting and count on more than four decades of fascinating evolution. My guess is that this -- even more than Donnhoff’s other 2006 Auslesen -- will always taste like a wine from some other vintage, at least when measured against its great Middle Mosel counterparts. (DS)
I imagine that the Brücke Auslese also has a fair bit of botrytis to it, but it does not make itself felt in anywhere the same manner as in the Kupfergrube. The nose on the 2006 is deep, pure and primary, as it offers up notes of cherries, tangerine, bee pollen, floral tones and a serious mother load of minerality. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and pure, with laser-like focus, gem-like transparency, brisk acids, and simply stunning cut and grip on the very long, pure and ethereal finish. Another magnificent 2006 wine from Helmut Dönnhoff.
True to its site, this feels generous and inviting, its ripeness hinting at red fruit flavors under the peachy flesh. It's intense and pure, feeling complete, resonant and harmonious on the long finish.
Rich golden yellow. Luscious aromas of passion fruit, pineapple and sweet lime mingle with a delicate hint of botrytis. A bright spiciness along with elevated minerality enliven the palate. Finishes smoky and long. (JP)
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