A new bottling from the winery. The vineyard is in the Petaluma Gap, a cool area south of the Russian River Valley, toward San Francisco. The vintage was cool, too, so the wine is brisk in acidity and low in alcohol, but it still tastes amazingly ripe and complex. The wine dazzles with waves of black raspberry jam, sweet olive tapenade, sautéed brown mushroom, root beer, moo-shu plum sauce and mocha. If those flavors sound like they don’t go together, just try the wine. It’s seamless and compelling. Drink now–2020.
Vivid ruby. An expressive bouquet offers raspberry and cherry preserves, Asian spices, musky loam and licorice. Sappy and open-knit, with red berry, licorice and floral pastille flavors enlivened by harmonious acidity. Finishes with silky tannins and very good length, betraying a hint of youthful tannins. (ST)
This is Williams Selyem’s first vintage from Charles and Diana Karren’s vineyard in the Petaluma Gap. The foggy, windy site produced a tart, light-bodied pinot with scents of strawberries and raspy strawberry seed flavors. Its gentle structure carries the red fruit in a cherry direction, suited to roast duck.
There is a fine sense of fruity definition and well-measured ripeness about this bottling, and, while a little dialed back and restrained, it is not in the least lacking in character. The descriptor "elegant" may be overused, but it very clearly applies here, and the wine handily succeeds on the basis of its balance, freshness and very likeable Pinot focus rather than relying on an abundance of muscle and mass.
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