*One star* Clean and composed at every stop and showing fine fruity precision, this nicely made Cabernet avoids bombast and swagger and instead aims successfully for structure and balance. There is no question but that it toughens up and gets a touch gritty at the finish, but its essential fruit will easily outlast its rather too-obvious tannins, and we are looking for anywhere from five to ten-plus years of very positive growth.
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2013 Chateau Ste. Michelle "Cold Creek Vineyard" Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (Elsewhere $30)