Voluptuous, intense and powerful, the 2012 Chablis Valmur blossoms in all directions with deeply expressive layers of fruit. This is a decidedly masculine, virile Chablis. Imposing and deep, the 2012 is going to require a bit of patience. Because of slightly lower yields, 40% of the juice was vinified in oak, a little more than normal. I can't wait to see how the 2012 develops over the coming year. Today, it is super-impressive.
Recently assembled from tank, Droin’s 2012 Chablis Valmur evinces a bit of lanolin and resin from its majority barrel-component. Behind that, lime, peppermint, and pineapple close to the core project a cooling, stimulating and brightly-juicy personality on a palate so palpably enriched by lees and envelopingly creamy (alongside such bright juiciness!) that Droin calls it “Batard(-Montrachet)-like” – but is at pains to insist that this is more a function of terroir than of technique. Chalkiness segues into peppery pungency to enhance a finish of grip and enervation. This striking offering is more in the mould of a couple of Blanchots from its vintage (including Droin’s own, also reviewed in this report) than that of most other grand crus. It ought to serve well through at least 2022.
(from 50+ year old vines aged in 50% wood but only a 'small' percentage was new). There is enough wood to notice though not dominate the green fruit, floral, citrus and algae aromas. There is a taut muscularity to the broad-shouldered flavors that possess an opulent and impressively concentrated mid-palate before culminating in a powerful, mineral-driven and moderately austere finish.
(this was in 45% oak, some new, until the recent assemblage): Pale greenish-yellow. Fresh apricot, peach oil, ginger and quinine on the nose; very Cote de Beaune in style. Fat, sweet and powerful, in a rather massive style. Concentrated and ripe but a bit exotic for my taste; I find a slight bitterness on the finish. This is 13.3% alcohol without chaptalization.
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