Moving to his Syrah-based effort, the 2012 VDP Cotes Catalanes Boreal is 100% Syrah, from 30-year-old vines mostly planted on granite soils, and is aged 14-16 months in French and Austrian oak demi-muids. More deep, layered and concentrated than either of the L’Esprit du Temps (as expected), it offers a spectacular bouquet of black currants, charcoal, smoked meats and leather, with an almost Cornas-like wildness that comes out with air. Full-bodied, massive and yet seamless on the palate, with fabulous concentration, purity and length, it is a serious effort that will evolve for upwards of two decades. These awesome wines are made by Gilles Troullier, who was the former winemaker/cellar master for Chapoutier’s Roussillon efforts. Now focusing solely on his own estate, he’s producing some of the most exciting wines from the region.
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