The 2013 Pinot Noir Zio Tony Ranch bristles with energy and nuance, both of which serve to balance the typical Russian River juiciness. This is a fairly laid-back vintage for the Zio Tony. There is plenty of darkness, power and overall intensity, but at the same time, bright acidity and salivating minerality contribute tons of energy. The sweet, perfumed finish is a thing of beauty. I wish every Vinous reader could sit down for a tasting with the Martinelli family as I have had the privilege of doing for the last handful of years. Of all the estates I visit in California, Martinelli is the one of the very few properties where virtually all of the discussion focuses on vineyards, soils, clones and rootstocks...and not much else. There can be little doubt where the emphasis is here. The Martinellis like to pick their fruit on the ripe side, which tends to yield pretty rich wines, but the cool, abundant 2012 vintage, with its slightly larger berry size, yielded wines that retain notable brightness, something that is especially evident in the Chardonnays and Syrahs. (AG)
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