Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The Arinto "Poço do Lobo" is actually a current item, available from the importer. Arinto ages well and the terroir, not far from the ocean, typically provides good acidity. So, this region does have a reputation for aging well in all colors. This is lovely. To be sure, it is fully mature--and wonderfully complex. It is not going to taste fresh or fruity or perky. But if there is any oxidation, it isn't much. This has a fine core of acidity to still provide tension on the finish. It is surprisingly lively and relatively solid in the mid-palate. It awakens and actually seemed a bit fresher with air and warmth, with some notes of dried pear. It is not at all sweet, but its harmony makes it great to drink on its own. Or, it will go well with any number of restrained fish dishes and gentle, fatty foods. I came back to this another six or so hours later. It showed more mushroom and truffle, but its acidity was still fine and the wine was still great. It actually once again got fresher with air and warmth. How much longer does it have? That is always a fine question for wines that probably have already exceeded many peoples' guesses by a lot. At a certain point, it becomes about the bottle. It still seems to have plenty of time left, but let's exercise a little caution and take that in stages. By the way, the price for something this old and this good is exceptional. If it said "Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru" instead of Beiras, that likely wouldn't be the case. (MS)

(04/2016)