As good as the preceding wines may be, they pale in the shadow of the 2005 Shiraz “Old Bastard,” sourced from a 114-year-old vineyard, and which spent 22 months in new and one-year-old French oak. It presents a superb perfume of cedar, violets, lavender, smoked meat, game, black raspberry, and blueberry. This leads to a voluptuous, velvety-textured, layered, super concentrated Shiraz in perfect balance with well-concealed tannins and a 60-second, pure finish. (JM)
From vines planted in 1893, this wine combines spicy complexity with size and ultraconcentrated fruit. It tips the scales at 16% alcohol, but wears it well, hiding it under hints of licorice and subtle wood spice and layers of blackberry and blueberry fruit. Yes, it’s big, but it’s not inelegant, finishing lush, long and spicy. (JC)
Lithe and juicy. A lively mouthful of raspberry, currant, coffee and peppery spice flavors, lingering enticingly on the fine-grained finish. Shows a bit of heat on the finish, but has tremendous depth and persistence. A bit tight now, this can benefit from cellaring. Shiraz. (HS)
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