The 2013 Chablis Preuses stands out from the rest of this lineup for its extraordinary bouquet. I could stand in front of this barrel all day. Dried flowers, sage, slate, crushed rocks and lime race across the palate as this tense, pulsating Chablis captivates the senses with its extraordinary purity and finesse. Magnificent from the very first taste, the 2013 Preuses might also turn out to be one of the wines of the vintage. Sadly, yields are down 30%. (AG)
Bright, pale yellow-green. Idiosyncratic, slightly reduced nose offers powerful saline minerality, with ginger and quinine in the background and little sign of this bottling's typical floral character. Then wonderfully rich and fat in the mouth, with a thickness of texture rare for this grand cru in the early going. The strong marine character carries through on the palate, making this suave yet powerful wine tricky to taste today. I'd like to see this again in a few years, but it will probably need longer than that to express itself fully.
An openly exotic nose combines notes of dried peach and apricot with those tidal pool, oyster shell, mineral reduction and soft citrus peel aromas. The sense of refinement and purity continues onto the rich and voluminous flavors that glide across the palate and it is immediately clear that this is a wine of class and grace, particularly on the harmonious and sneaky long finish. While 2013 will not be in the running for the best Preuses that Dauvissat has ever made, it should still be excellent.
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