Production in the Lafon parcel of Montrachet was down by forty percent in 2012, which, given the really brutal yields in some of the other vineyards in this vintage, is really not as bad as it could have been! The remaining seventy-five case of this wine are going to be the stuff of legends for many years to come, as the wine is absolutely brilliant. The stunning bouquet is a beautiful blend of white peach, apple, tangerine, incipient notes of almond paste, iodine, a marvelously complex base of chalky soil tones, white flowers and a very discreet framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and youthfully complex, with a rock solid core of fruit, impeccable focus and balance, crisp acids and superb cut and grip on the very, very long and utterly refined finish. A brilliant and utterly classic young bottle of Monty. (Drink between 2020-2050)
Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2012 tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Montrachet Grand Cru from Dominique Lafon is much more reduced on the nose compared to Marquis de Laguiche: waxier in style, less mineral-driven, sporting resinous scents that don't quite "sing" of Montrachet. The palate is fresh and crisp, a little shrillness on the entry with a sharp citric thread of acidity, finishing in more accomplished fashion than the nose augured with a saline aftertaste. It is quite amazing how this Montrachet magically gains more and more precision in the glass. It is a different style Montrachet to Laguiche but equally compelling. (NM)
Good bright green-tinged yellow. Aromas of mirabelle, white flowers and smoky oak. Large-scaled and thick but not yet elegant or shapely. In the solid style of the year but still youthfully monolithic. This finished its malolactic fermentation later than the Perrieres and needs to refine itself in barrel. But possesses the strong acidity and sappy, palate-staining length to make a great bottle.
Once again the reduction is sufficiently prominent to completely dominate the fruit. There is excellent freshness and terrific intensity to the imposingly-scaled flavors that brim with seemingly endless reserves of dry extract on the balanced, hugely long and explosive finish that really fans out as it sits on the palate. In contrast to many vintages of this storied wine that require a minimum of 10 to 12 years of cellaring before it can be drunk with pleasure, the 2012 version should be approachable after only 5 to 7 years even though my sense of the time required for full maturity is more on the order of 12 to 15.
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