I had the fascinating opportunity to taste back in time to the 1990 Barolo Rocche dei Brovia. Winemaker Alex Sanchez started at Brovia in 2000, so this wine was considerably before his time. The wine opens to a dark color and consistency with garnet and amber highlights. The bouquet is beautifully redolent of licorice, balsam herb, spice and dried flowers. There is a slight note of oxidation, but it adds to the wine's overall complexity and aged personality. Mineral notes and campfire ash also appear at the back with candied fruit and exotic spice. Barolo Rocche dei Brovia is near the end of its optimal drinking window and could begin to decline at a faster rate. (ML)
The 1990 Barolo Rocche dei Brovia needs quite a bit of air to open up. Sweet, layered and deeply expressive, the 1990 is an excellent choice for drinking now and over the next few years. Licorice, spices, dried cherries, orange peel and star anise are all laced together in a pretty, tertiary Barolo that has reached its peak. Well-stored bottles will hold on for a few more years, but I wouldn't push my luck too far. The 1990 will appeal most to readers who enjoy fully mature Barolos.
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