This is the coolest and freshest of the Grand Cru vineyards. The wine is tight, steely with a nervy core of acidity that gives it a textured, structured character. It is full of energy, crisp, packed with apples and citrus and needing several years aging. Drink from 2020. *Cellar Selection* (RV)
Pale, green-tinged yellow. Lemon, lime, white pepper, menthol, botanical herbs and powdered stone on the enticing nose and palate. Densely packed, chewy and tactile; a bit smaller-scaled than the Vaudesir but strong integrated acidity perfectly balances the wine's sweetness and gives the palate outstanding cut. The very long, palate-staining finish conveys a strong impression of dusty extract. Great potential here.
The 2013 Chablis Valmur is magnificent. Veins of bright, stony minerality support the fruit in a tense, brilliant wine that brings together considerable textural richness and bright acidity. All the elements fall into place effortlessly. Fèvre's Valmur emerges from the cooler, top section of the vineyard. (AG)
Here too the nose is trimmed in just enough wood to notice though it does not interfere with the clear appreciation of the fresh, cool and restrained aromas of green fruit, lemon peel and a plenitude of Chablis character where only a hint of exotic fruit is in evidence. Like the Bougros, this is a big-bodied wine with ample size, weight and mid-palate density as the abundant dry extract imparts a suave and opulent mouth feel before culminating in an impressively rich, muscular and persistent finish.
The 2013 Valmur, not surprisingly, is one of the top wines in the cellar this year and here the earlier picking at the domaine really shows through, as the wine offers up a pure and vibrant bouquet of pear, apple, lime zest, a bit of tart orange, chalky minerality, white flowers and a touch of anise in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and nicely structured, with a rock solid core and fine sense of reserve, crisp acids and excellent focus and grip on the long and still fairly youthful finish. Drink between 2017-2035.
The 2013 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur has a sultry, quite backward bouquet at the moment: touches of wet earth, citrus peel and granite that all need a little more intensity. The palate is fresh and crisp on the entry, saline in the mouth with a twist of sour lemon, although the mineral finish just lacks a little persistence at the moment. I would give this another couple of years in the cellar as the tension is commendable. Drink through 2027. (NM)
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