A much more subtle application of wood allows the pretty and beautifully layered nose of both red and dark pinot fruit, earth and lovely spice aromas to have center stage. The rich and relatively full-bodied flavors are finer than those of the Clos de la Roche while delivering the same fine length though here there is a hint of asperity. In the same fashion there is quite a bit of gas present and because all the other elements seem ripe, my predicted range offers the benefit of the doubt.
The 2013 Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru has a slightly lighter color than the Clos de la Roche. The bouquet is certainly in the red fruit spectrum, with fresh strawberry, red currant and cranberry notes. There is an appealing sense of transparency here. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, lighter than I expected but very focused and with fine tension. I was just anticipating more substance on the finish like the Clos de la Roche. Still, I appreciate this style of Clos Saint Denis that does not press down on the accelerator too hard. Like last year, I sectioned off two morning sessions to taste through the complete range of Louis Jadot’s Côte d’Or wines. That’s over 100 wines and so I prefer to not rush, spend my time diligently tasting and comparing each one in the presence of winemaker Frédéric Barnier and then on the second morning accompanied by proprietor Pierre-Henry Gagey, fresh from a ten-day fasting in Germany and positively bounding with positivity. With such a plethora of vineyards under their wing, both owned and rented, both gentlemen have a birds-eye view of how Burgundy performed in the vintage.
Deep, bright red. Lovely energy and lift to the aromas and flavors of red fruits, brown spices, dried flowers and sexy oak. Broad and dry on the palate, offering superb density and lift and a saline complexity that adds another dimension. This ripely tannic Clos Saint-Denis strikes me as unusually powerful for the vintage and for the cru. But that's no complaint.
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