Jadot's stunning 1990 Beaune Clos des Ursules is fully mature, although there is no rush to consume it as it will enjoy another 5-8 years of life. The color is a healthy medium ruby with lightening at the edge. A sweet, earthy, mineral, dusty, black cherry-scented nose is intense and ripe. In the mouth, the wine is medium to full-bodied, with a plush texture, a subtle note of toasty oak, and a long, layered, heady finish. The acidity is present, but it is not intrusive. (RP)
Very seductive, with lovely intensity, super berry flavors and nicely integrated tannins.
Many readers may be aware of my modest attraction to the 1990 red Burgundies these days, as I find a great many of them now rather overripe and uninteresting. However, within the context of the excesses of the 1990s, the Clos des Ursules does stand out as one of the more pure and interesting wines I have recently tasted from this vintage. The bouquet offers up notes of blackberries, herbs, bitter chocolate, earth and tobacco smoke. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and quite pure, with good balance, a fine core, and good length and grip on the long, though not particularly Burgundian finish. The style of the 1990 vintage has taken away much of the elegance of Clos des Ursules that can be found in vintages such as 1993, but that said, this is still a quite successful example of the vintage. 89+
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