From ancient terraces high above the Berg Roseneck that Leitz began restoring at the turn of the millennium, this bottling as usual finished with residual sugar just above the cut-off for legal Trockenheit. Nearly every installment since has been memorable, but none more so than this one. A glorious nose mingles ripe white peach, gentian and iris perfume, raw almond, along with intimations of the crustacean shell reduction that goes on to capture the salivary glands on a palate generous in succulent fruit and bittersweet inner-mouth floral perfume. A rivulet of fresh lemon serves for bright, cheek-tugging animation in a resonant finish of consummate refreshment and intricate, near-kaleidoscopic interaction among fruity, floral and marine mineral elements.
The 2014 Rüdesheimer Berg Kaisersteinfels Riesling Terrassen is from the terraced part above the most western part of the Rüdesheim Berg Roseneck, as well as the western part of Berg Schlossberg, and from up to 80-year-old vines. The wine offers a very clear, coolish, slatey/crystalline bouquet that indicates a great delicacy and finesse. Full-bodied, clear and piquant on the palate, this is a crystalline and very salty wine with thrill, tension and a nice grip in the finish. Still very closed and with a certain tannic impression at the moment of tasting – the wine was bottled in early July – I wonder if the Kaisersteinfels could be even more finesse-full and delicate, with a little bit more of residual sugar. (SR)
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