*One Star* This fat and full-bodied Merlot shows the same emphatic imprint of ripeness that marks the two Lewis Syrahs in this issue, and, if not a wine much concerned with subtlety or nuance, it will win admirers of no-holds-barred richness. It deserves a good deal of credit for not abandoning its varietally true, black cherry fruit in the face of so much chocolate and sweet oak, and, even if a little too hot and more gruffly tannic than it needs to be, it is a wine of grand proportion and serious depth.
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