Like the Liebenberg from weathered granite and gneiss soils, but in a higher and cooler spot, the 2015 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Dürnsteiner Kellerberg opens with an intense and herbal-flavored, rather spicy and stony bouquet of ripe and concentrated bright fruits. Full-bodied, ripe and piquant on the palate, this is a rich and powerful, well-concentrated and elegant Kellerberg with a rich extract and a long and persistent finish. The 2015 should be cellared for at least another 3-5 years. (SR)
Pineapple, papaya, lime and mandarin on the nose return on the palate to guarantee that for all of this wine’s lushness and textural plushness, it preserves refreshing juiciness, invigorating tang and offsetting piquancy. Site-typical Szechuan peppercorn lends further stimulation to a seriously sustained finish in which 14 percent alcohol neither contributes heat nor precludes animation and focus. (DS)
Creamy up front, with the underlying acidity bringing out flavors of peach, chamomile tea and white pepper in this well-crafted, minerally version. Shows good depth and concentration. (BS)
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