*Outstanding* Once again there is a small amount of post-bottling SO2 present but not so much as to mask the fresh and ripe aromas of pear, apple, white peach and floral-scented nose. There is a lovely sense of underlying tension to the round and caressing middle weight flavors that manage to retain reasonably good cut on the lightly mineral and citrus-infused finale that delivers excellent depth and length. Note that this should be approachable young yet age to good effect. Drink: 2021+
The 2014 Beaune 1Er Cru Clos des Mouches was picked between September 16 and 19, completely destemmed and raised for 16 months in cask. Noticeably deep in color, it has a tight blackberry and briary-scented nose that needs to develop a little more complexity and tension. The palate is dense on the entry, well balanced and showing some oak at the moment that will need to be subsumed. There is respectable weight and substance here, a touch of chewiness but decent length. A bit broad-shouldered, give this Clos des Mouches 4-5 years in bottle. (NM)
(just eight hectoliters per hectare produced due to the hail): Good medium red. Ripe aromas of strawberry, mocha and earth. Surprisingly supple and pliant but with good grip and acidity to the cherry, licorice and spice flavors. Finishes clean if a bit folded in on itself, with a positive peppery accent. Frédéric Drouhin told me that new leaves appeared on the vines two weeks after the hail and were able to ripen the fruit that remained, which he credited to the Drouhins' organic viticulture. (ST)
Dark cherry red. Dark-red fruit, peppery and a touch stemmy though it is apparently destemmed. Dry, dark and savoury on the palate, a little smoky (reductive?), more like a wine from vines grown on schist than a Beaune. Dry and grippy on the palate, though the tannin texture is paper fine, lots of dry layers. Hiding its light and aroma for the moment. 17++/20 points. Drink 2020-2030. (JH)
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