Another look at perfection is the 350-case cuvée of 2014 Sugarloaf Mountain Proprietary Red. This is a Cheval Blanc-like blend of 57% Cabernet Franc and 43% Merlot aged in Gamba and Darnajou barrels. I don’t know anyone making wine from this particular rockpile in the southeastern hillsides of Napa, but Bevan has certainly found an unreal terroir to exploit. Unbelievable aromatics – going the full spectrum of red, blue and black fruits to spring flowers to earthy charcoal embers and incense – are followed by a wine of magnificent intensity, fabulous purity and full-bodied, almost unctuous, texture. Yet, the wine has the balance of a world-class ballerina. This is deep, rich, showing incredibly well already, and therefore hard to resist. It could last for 20+ years in a cold cellar, but why wait? (RP)
The 2014 Proprietary Red Sugarloaf Mountain, a blend of equal parts Cabernet Franc and Merlot, is striking. Bright acids, along with considerable aromatic intensity from the Cabernet Franc give the wine its distinctive, bright personality. Lifted, expressive aromatics and bold, red-toned fruit are some of the signatures in this very pretty, compelling wine from Russell Bevan and Victoria De Crescenzo. (AG)
Exhibits a strong vanilla bean, herbal and woody presence without softening the tannic flex. There's plenty to admire in the extracted dark berry and crushed rock core, but the tannins are entrenched for the long haul. Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Best from 2020 through 2034. (JL)
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