The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru includes 40% whole bunch and matured in 50% new oak, originating from the usual three vineyards: Petit Chapelle, Gerbaudes and Bel-Air. Apparently the berries here were particularly small. It has an understated bouquet at first, but it rapidly unfurls with pure dark cherries, crushed strawberry and rose petal aromas, an underlying mineralité surfacing with a few swirls of the glass. The palate is supremely well balanced with a killer line of acidity that slices through the layers of pure and compelling red cherry and strawberry fruit. There is outstanding mineral tension on the finish. Brilliant. It is not a question of whether Arnaud Mortet's 2015 Burgundies kicked arse...but how much. I was totally blown away by these wines that represent the best ever from the domaine. It is not so much a case of a stellar 100-pointers. Perhaps I was anticipating a score in that rarefied air as I approached the grand crus, and they were not quite there. Rather, it is the consistency amongst the village and premier crus that punched well above their wait, forcing me to give scores that might raise a few eyebrows amongst those in the misguided belief that all Burgundy wines adhere to the hierarchy: generic < village < premier < grand cru. These were thrilling wines that sent tingles of pleasure down my spine. (NM)
(a blend of Bel-Air, Petit Chapelle and Cherbaudes; 40% vendange entier and 49% new oak): Deep red with ruby tones. Sexy scents of black raspberry, game and chocolate. Tactile, sweet and deep, with its chewy dark berry flavors complemented by saline minerality. Finishes ripely tannic and long; clearly the deepest of these 2015s to this point. (ST)
Discreet wood serves as a relatively neutral backdrop for the fresh, cool and airy aromas of cassis, black cherry and floral scents that are trimmed in Gevrey-style earth. There is excellent intensity to the more obviously mineral-inflected medium weight flavors that coat the palate with dry extract, all wrapped in an attractively energetic, balanced and youthfully austere finale. This tautly muscular effort should age well yet be approachable after only 5-ish or so years.
Mid cherry. Lively, almost peppery dark fruit. Paper-fine tannins. Light and fragrant on the palate. A little dry on the finish. (JH)
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