An effusive nose and succulent though firm palate combine Riesling-like white peach, apple and lime with classic Grüner Veltliner snap pea, white pepper, and a hint of lilac. Expansive yet (at 11.5 percent alcohol) buoyant, this softens on the finish after delivering a bright initial attack, but remains tangy and consummately refreshing, with hints of iodine and saliva-liberating salinity adding to its appeal. This cuvée will continue through 2016 to incorporate some fruit from a friend who farms biodynamically in a portion of the Weinviertel not far north of Hirsch’s estate. For many years, this bottling was known as 'No. 1' in the US... In connection with the estate’s new label design, the wine has been renamed, and will now appear in the US labeled simply as Grüner Veltliner. (DS)
A riper aspect of Bosc pear plays about this Grüner. The palate, however, reins this back in with punchy, zesty flavors of arugula, lemon rind and green pear. There is quite some concentration on the core as well as real verve and nerve.
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