This is spicier still with its slightly more deeply pitched nose of red and dark pinot fruit, violet, Asian tea and dried orange peel hints. There is much more minerality present on the vibrant and intense medium weight flavors that possess unusually good delineation for the vintage, all wrapped in a sappy, dusty and sneaky long finish. This is very classy juice and less marked by the vintage than the Vosne villages. 2027+
Good medium bright red. Much more fruity and expressive on the nose than the Petits Vougeot, offering aromas of redcurrant, raspberry and sexy oak spices. At once creamy, ripe and juicy in the mouth, conveying an easygoing sweetness to its concentrated flavors of raspberry, spices, chocolate and minerals. Has more than enough texture and depth to buffer its 13.4% alcohol. The tannins spread out horizontally to saturate the palate on the very long back end. (ST)
The 2015 Vosne Romanee 1er Cru les Beaumonts was matured in 30% new oak. I found this to be the most reticent of Hudelot-Noellat's 2015s, the nose backward despite coaxing, and I found that the palate has not yet developed the mineralité that I think it will eventually muster. There is plenty of natural freshness and an attractive dash of black pepper on the finish, but it just needs a little more personality to come through, so that it can rank alongside the Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots and Malconsorts, both demonstrating more potential from barrel at this point. My visit to Domaine Alain Hudelot-Noellat with hirsute winemaker Charles Van Cannyt was one of the most amusing during my never-ending forays in and out of domaines. Hot topics of discussion included whether his recent nuptials into the Gagey family of Louis Jadot precludes either husband or wife criticizing each other's wines across the dinner table, whether opera is rubbish (or not), in addition to one very funny anecdote that's probably best I do not share. In between our jabbering, I tasted through a terrific set of 2015s that serve notice that this domaine is really ratcheting up the quality. From the entry-level Bourgogne Rouge onward, these barrel samples reaffirmed my estimation of Hudelot-Noëllat rapidly ascending to one of Vosne-Romanée's top growers by dint of the location of their vines, rather than the location of the winery that almost seems misplaced in Vougeot.
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