The 2015 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru les Murgers has a relatively candied bouquet compared to winemaker Charles van Canneyt's other crus, hints of baking powder and thyme infusing the perfumed red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit, well-judged acidity, quite "solid" in the mouth with a dense, generous finish. Not quite the length of the Vougeot here, but it is still very delicious. My visit to Domaine Alain Hudelot-Noellat with hirsute winemaker Charles Van Cannyt was one of the most amusing during my never-ending forays in and out of domaines. Hot topics of discussion included whether his recent nuptials into the Gagey family of Louis Jadot precludes either husband or wife criticizing each other's wines across the dinner table, whether opera is rubbish (or not), in addition to one very funny anecdote that's probably best I do not share. In between our jabbering, I tasted through a terrific set of 2015s that serve notice that this domaine is really ratcheting up the quality. From the entry-level Bourgogne Rouge onward, these barrel samples reaffirmed my estimation of Hudelot-Noëllat rapidly ascending to one of Vosne-Romanée's top growers by dint of the location of their vines, rather than the location of the winery that almost seems misplaced in Vougeot.
(this was the first parcel picked in 2015--on the morning of September 7, with 13.5% potential alcohol): Bright red-ruby. Sexy aromas of black cherry and sweet oak convey a liqueur-like ripeness. Rich and creamy on the palate, but energized by ripe acidity and a serious tannic spine. This very tactile, densely packed, sharply chiseled wine tastes like it's from another vintage. It will require at least four or five years of aging upon release.
Moderate wood influence isn't really enough to detract from the attractively fresh aromas of notably ripe black cherry, raspberry and newly turned earth. Like the Petits Vougeots the intense and muscular flavors possess a sleek mouth feel and excellent volume while displaying very fine persistence on the firm, complex and impressively persistent finish. Note that at least some patience will be required.
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