Tasted blind at the Burgfest annual tasting, the 2014 Chablis Grand Cru La Moutonne from Long-Depaquit was showing a bit of reduction on the nose and despite coaxing only turned out to be rather muffled. The palate is quite sharp on the entry with sour lemon and a touch of orange rind, a light oyster shell note underneath. I suspect there is a very fine Chablis grand cru here but it will require three or four years in bottle to really show what it can do. It certainly appears to be enjoying an upward swing in bottle. (NM)
Very closed nose hints at wet stone, flint, anise, grilled almond and hazelnut. Hugely rich and concentrated, conveying a powerful impression of dry extract to its flavors of yellow fruits, flowers and saline iodiney minerality. It's hard to scrape this big, mouthfilling wine (13% alcohol) off your palate. Finishes full, broad and very long, with terrific energy and lift. Classic grand cru Chablis with superb aging potential. (ST)
(2.35 ha monopole that spans a parcel of vines situated in both Vaudésir and Preuses though 95% of it is in Vaudésir. The site is protected from the wind and often gives very ripe wines; <25% new wood) This is restrained to the point of being all but mute aromatically with only hints of mineral reduction in evidence. There is outstanding volume and mid-palate concentration to the textured full-bodied flavors that exhibit fine power and drive, all wrapped in a palate coating, intense and hugely long finish. This is a seriously impressive effort and clearly the best of these grands crus. Drink: 2024+
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