This too is super-fresh with its airy nose that combines floral, red currant and evident wet stone scents. The racy and tension-filled flavors possess a really lovely mouth feel if perhaps not quite the overall depth and length as the best of these villages wines.
(from vines planted in the 1980s on rocky soil): Good dark red. Quite reticent on the nose, and a bit diffuse. Then juicy and sweet in the mouth, with soil-driven red berry flavors complicated by red licorice and mineral notes. Good density and breadth here--and a bit more size than usual for this wine. Finishes with dusty, horizontal tannins. Clair noted that this bottling is taking on more power as the vines age. (ST)
The 2015 Morey-Saint-Denis En la Rue de Vergy has a strict and linear bouquet, eschewing the fruité of the vintage for something more conservative. I wonder if this has closed down for the winter? The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannin. This is strict and foursquare: moderate depth with a slight curtailed finish that I hope will gain more flesh by the time of bottling. (NM) Bruno Clair already has an impressive array of holdings in the Côtes de Nuits, from which he has been furnishing wine lovers with beautifully made, quite classically-styled wines for many years. Next year he will add another quite significant parcel of Bonnes-Mares from the cessation of a fermage with Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair, who own the monopole of vines on the Morey-Saint-Denis side of the border. That will surely make Bruno one of the most significant producers of this grand cru. I tasted through the 2015s with winemaker Philippe Brun and a young student who was studying oeno-tourism, assigned 2-weeks by her college at the domaine (I can think of worse work placements myself). "We had some millerandage during the growing season," Philippe told me. "We picked from 6 September and then over 10 days until 20 September. We picked the whites within two days." (NM)
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