Marie and Frédéric Chauffray farm several patches of old vines in the heights of the Terraces du Larzac, including a one-acre mixed planting of grenache blanc, roussanne and chenin blanc. As chenin isn’t allowed under the Terraces appellation, they’ve declassified it to Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert, but there’s nothing downmarket about this white. It’s rich and salty, with the sweet savor of the beeswax in a honeycomb and the scent of flowers adding delicacy. The wine lasts, firm and dense, with a meaty, brothy note that gives it a sense of breadth without getting weighty. It would be delicious with a parmesan risotto, or simply salty ham.
The 2016 IGP Saint Guilhem Le Désert La Réserve D' O Vin Blanc is a unique blend of equal parts Chenin Blanc, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc that has loads of baking spices (clove, nutmeg), mulled stone fruits, medium-bodied richness and racy acidity. (JD)
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