Reduction presently renders the nose difficult to assess but there is both good freshness and punch to the detailed and delicious flavors that terminate in a mildly rustic and warm yet reasonably refreshing finale.
The 2015 Bourgogne Roncevie has a perfumed, quite floral blackcurrant and raspberry-scented bouquet. The palate is sweet on the entry with candied fruit; saline in the mouth but it just feels a little abrupt on the finish. Cyprien Arlaud is one of the quieter young winemakers in Morey-Saint-Denis, but he has been discretely overseeing a range of very fine wines from some of the Côte de Nuits choice vineyards in recent years. He has also moved the estate towards Herr Steiner's philosophy, the domaine certified biodynamic in 2014 by BIODIVIN. He also has a small negociant side under the "& Arlaud" name, which comes from vineyards that he has complete autonomy over, ergo they are immediately transferred into organic and biodynamic vineyard husbandry, though they must await certification. "We harvested from 7 September and over the next 9 days," he told me, "stopping one day for the rain. I wouldn't say that the rain had no effect, but it was very little, perhaps making the sugar not quite as concentrated. With a vintage like 2015 we needed the rain if you don't want to have overripe grapes and less stress in the vines. We did not suffer mildew but we had oïdium pressure, especially in Chambolle-Musigny. So there we had to use a little more sulphur and we had to be careful not to burn the leaves in the heat. Therefore unusually we sprayed three times by night. We started horse plowing in 2003. The soil had become so impermeable by the dryness, but the horse reduces soil comp
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