The 2015 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru les Goulots is the first to be completely biodynamically farmed, although Florence told me that she only really noticed the difference apropos the color of the grapes in the 2016 vintage. It has a complex bouquet with redcurrant, cranberry and blood orange, very focused with deftly integrated oak. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a little meatiness/dried blood developing underneath the carapace of black fruit, white pepper and Moroccan spice towards the finish. I love the tension here, not powerful but it just has the energy you would not anticipate from such a warm season. There is nothing that gives me more pleasure than seeing a winemaker, a domaine, ratchet up the quality a few notches—and that is undoubtedly the case here with Domaine Heresztyn-Mazzini. A decade ago their wines were adequate, but not really fulfilling their full potential. However, Florence Heresztyn and her husband Simon Mazzini are realizing their vision to produce the best wines possible from their holdings. Of course, much of that work has been done where it matters, among the vines whereby half are now tended biodynamically. It's not that they have adopted Rudolf Steiner's tenets that I personally regard as the headline, rather that it is indicative of a winemaker that really, really cares. You just cannot be biodynamic without dedicating yourself 100% and that attention to detail must be applied throughout the entire winemaking process. The do
While the wood treatment is a bit more evident it still remains a background element on the ripe but airy nose of spicy, floral and earthy red berry fruit aromas. The elevation of the vineyards is especially noticeable in a ripe vintage like 2015 as the medium weight flavors display plenty of minerality and a racy energy that carries over to the saline finish that is shaped by relatively fine-grained tannins. Lovely juice.
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