The thickest, most unctuous, full-bodied and sexy white of the vintage is the 2014 Ermitage de l’Orée. Coming all from the sedimentary soils of the Les Murets and aged mostly in demi-muids (only 15% new), it offers a sensational perfume of caramelized peaches, campfire, honeysuckle and white flowers that literally come soaring from the glass. Possessing uncommon density, a stacked mid-palate, loads of sweet fruit and a blockbuster finish, this hedonistic effort can be drunk with incredible pleasure today, or cellared for a decade or more. It will have three or more decades of overall longevity. Looking at the 2014 whites from Michel Chapoutier, these are gorgeous wines that show the suppler, more elegant style of the vintage, yet still have thick, unctuous textures that keep you coming back to the glass. The level of concentration this estate is able to achieve, even in these more difficult vintages, is truly remarkable. 98+ (JD)
Very complex, dried yellow flowers, flinty yellow citrus and papaya on the nose. There's a lot wrapped into this wine. The palate has an extremely powerful, juicy and athletic feel with assertive phenolics matched to vibrant acidity and a pithy, compressed finish. Best from 2023.
A rich style, with a lightly buttered edge leading the way, though there’s ample drive to the core of white peach, melon and pear flavors. A light honeysuckle edge frames the finish, presenting a toasted macadamia nut echo. Scrumptious. Drink now through 2025. (JM)
Bright yellow. Expressive aromas of nectarine, ripe citrus fruits, fresh fig and pungent flowers, backed by a building suggestion of smoky minerals. Sappy, densely packed, mineral-laced citrus and pit fruit and honeysuckle flavors show excellent concentration and become more energetic with air, picking up a hint of iodine as the wine opens up. The floral and mineral qualities carry emphatically through a strikingly long, focused finish that shows outstanding definition and tension. (JR)
Cask sample. In Les Murets in the east of Hermitage. Alkaline granite. Rich, smooth nose and then very tight, mineral finish. Sculpted palate and great potential. Light toastiness on the finish. 18/20 points. (JR)
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