Suggestions of salted peanut and oregano intriguingly inflect the scents and juicy mouthful of fresh apple on display in a buoyant, subtly sweet performance that reminds me slightly and unexpectedly of Grüner Veltliner. A shimmering sense of fruit and crystalline mineral exchange makes for a fascinating as well as consummately refreshing and vibrantly sustained finish. (DS)
The 2015 Riesling Zeltinger Himmelreich Kabinett (Green Capsule) displays an intense and concentrated, slightly yeasty bouquet with perfectly ripe stone fruit aromas. Lush and round on the palate but then pure, finessed and very salty, this is another fascinating Kabinett with a lot of salt and mineral tension in the finish. This wine is tight and generous at the same time, and its seductive fruit surely has majority appeal. Good aging potential. (SR)
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