Moderate amounts of wood and menthol elements frame the prominently ripe aromas of black pinot fruit liqueur aromas that are trimmed in an abundance of pretty spice nuances. The opulently, even lavishly rich medium weight flavors saturate the palate with sappy dry extract which also serves to buffer the more evidently mineral-inflected finish that is both firm and youthfully austere. Patience definitely required here.
Dark red with ruby highlights. Very ripe, smoky, soil-driven aromas of redcurrant, cinders, tobacco and underbrush; a bit of a shock following the more classic 2016s at this address. Large-scaled, rich and deep, conveying uncommon breadth to its red berry and earth flavors. Finishes with big, chewy, dusty, palate-coating tannins and excellent length. Like all of these '16s, this one calls for at least several years of cellaring. (ST)
The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Bousse d'Or, from the 2.3-hectare monopole, has a sensual bouquet with ripe black cherries intermixed with iodine and crushed violet scents. I appreciate the focus and control here. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, layers of blackberry and boysenberry fruit with a dense, assertive finish that will require 4-6 years to soften. There is substance and "thrust" here - what I would like to see is more nuance develop on the finish.
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