San Andreas is the wine that represents the entire Hirsch estate, from the ocean-influenced west ridge to the sun-warmed east ridge; in 2014, it draws from 30 of the vineyard’s 61 farming blocks. It has an undeniable sense of place, capturing coastal breezes and thin sedimentary ridgetop soils in the tight weave of its tannins - the fruit caught halfway between cherry and stone, cool and shady, yet hinting at vibrant rays of sunshine. You can access its complex floral spice now, but it’s still mostly structure, nowhere near maturity. Floral, foggy and mineral, it’s a wine you’ll want to taste in another decade.
The 2014 Pinot Noir San Andreas Fault draws on fruit across the entire ranch. Silky and aromatic, with understated depth, the 2014 will give readers a good idea of the personality of both the vintage and this site. Bright red stone fruit and delicate yet incisive tannins give the wine its shape and overall feel. This is a relatively easygoing style for Hirsch. (AG)
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