I tasted Dauvissat’s 2008 Chablis Les Clos assembled from tank very shortly before bottling, where it demonstrated a remarkably dense yet buoyant layering of citrus, quince, white peach, and formidably concentrated chalk, oyster shell, and iodine minerality. Citrus rind, quinine and fruit pit bitterness help extend a cleansing, gum-adhering, electrically charged, practically searing finish that foreshadows at least 15 years of glory, provided premature oxidation does not lay it low, something no one can predict, and which the track record at this address renders unlikely but unfortunately by no means unthinkable. About the prowess of this wine over the next half dozen years, though, as well as about that of Les Clos the site, I am left in no doubt by my present experience. (DS)
Bright, pale yellow with green highlights. The purest and most perfumed of these 2008s, offering scents of lemon oil, pineapple, mirabelle and white pepper. Wonderfully sweet and large-scaled, even a bit youthfully monolithic today, with a flavor of pure crushed stone. This boasts outstanding grand cru weight and a finish that saturates every millimeter of the palate. A wine that's still on the starting block. (ST)
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