I find the aroma of the Barbeito wines so much harder to describe because they are very much themselves, distinctive, not a prototype madeira - even though they are also distinctively madeira, if that makes any sense. This has quince sourness along with dried-apricot fruitiness, then actually quite steely on the palate despite the hint of sweetness. There's an amazing backbone that is not just the acidity but a kind of rigour. That tension is there again. Strikes me as a wine that would be great with food but what? Goes on for ever with a bitter-orange purity. 18.5/20 Points (JH)
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