Good full red. Spicy red fruits, pepper and a suggestion of iron on the nose. Suppler and sweeter than the Coeur du Roi, with an enticing juicy quality to its red fruit, leather and red licorice flavors. Finishes with building tannins and excellent length. Ultimately more pliant than the village wine but needs time. 91+ (ST)
The most elegant wine to this point with its pure, cool and refined red pinot fruit and stone nuances that is in perfect keeping with the rich and seductively sweet flavors that culminate in a linear and hugely long finish. As it usually is, in contrast to the robust and meaty character of the foregoing wines, this is an exercise in delicacy and finesse. The triage work here must have been essentially perfect because despite the hail suffered in this vineyard, there is no trace of dryness. Impressive.
Bernard Dugat reports having had to pick and sort berry by berry to avoid the effects of decimating hail in his 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Petite Chapelle. This painstaking and delicate operation was clearly successful. Kirsch and framboise distillates shadow their fresh fruit counterparts, while dark suggestions of decadent forest floor, peat, and game lend striking and mysterious aromatic and palate complexity. A hint of caramel from the barrel is well-integrated (though otherwise, the 100% new wood on Dugat's crus is scarcely noticeable.) This is dense but refined in tannin, full of energy, and positively buoyant. An already sensational concentration is underscored by black peppery pungency, tart berry skin chew, and the further invigoration of salts and tactile mineral impingements, leading to a finish that is glass-shattering in its four-alarm smokiness and urgency. This should prove amazing wine to follow over the next 12-15 years. (DS)
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