Moss, wet stone, alkali and woodsmoke make for a highly distinctive as well as pungent aromatic alliance, though there are also scents of lime, grapefruit, mango and apple, which anticipate the juicy profusion featured on a subtly creamy, palpably dense yet buoyant palate. A hint of almond supplements the appeal of a bell-clear, lingering finish delightfully poised between lusciously fruity and intriguingly mineral elements. As usual chez Zilliken, high residual sugar -- in this case, 58 grams -- is almost magically canceled out in a delicious equation. (This year, due to paucity of grapes and to the fact that their best yields were in the oldest vines that tend to be showcased in single-vineyard bottlings, the Zillikens rendered no village-level Saarburger Kabinett.) (DS)
Quite exotic on the nose, but without any hint of heaviness. Sensational balance of fruit, minerals, and super-elegant acidity make this a near-perfect example of this category. Pristine finish that makes you want more now, but this has a couple of decades of aging potential!
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