This is both riper and a good deal more aromatically complex with its nose of red and blue pinot fruit, game, earth and violet notes, all of which can be found on the big, robust and sauvage flavors that are more structured still and culminate in an explosive and mouth coating finish. A classic Clos du Roi that will need plenty of time.
Landanger's 2006 Corton Clos Du Roi exhibits the sort of pungent, nippy combination of spice and pepper that this year characterized a couple of his Volnays. The tartness of blackberry is a welcomes source of refreshment as well as invigoration, the latter reinforced by salty and peppery notes. Roasted meatiness, tobacco and herb concentrate, and the bitterness of fruit pits all add depth as well as a darker cast, and tannin is never far from the surface, but this preserves a dynamic interplay of elements in its long tactilely pungent finish that transcends the other wines in its collection. (DS)
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