Here the beautifully layered nose is even more elegant but as Valmur almost always is, the aromas are restrained, cool, refined and practically shout "Chablis" as the saline and oyster shell notes add real depth to the classic green fruit and floral aromas. As the low yields would suggest, this is one concentrated wine with an opulent mouth feel yet no loss of detail on the iodine-infused and austere but wonderfully vibrant finish that seems to go on and on. Terrific and this is brimming with that underlying sense of tension and energy.
Pale, green-tinged yellow. Highly nuanced nose combines lime, licorice, stone and minerals. Densely packed and tight, but with compellingly ripe flavors of golden apple and pineapple leavening the wine's more strict mineral and citric side. Finishes with a wonderfully pliant texture and superb persistence, leaving behind a scent of menthol in the empty glass. For the connoisseur, notes director Follin-Arbelet. (ST)
Fevre’s 2006 Chablis Valmur represents a dramatically different expression of Chablis character from the Vaudesir. Peony, musk, marzipan, and candied lime are the key notes (along with hints of lanolin and spice) in this rich, sweetly-perfumed, almost confectionary wine. As with the corresponding Bougros, this exhibits an uncanny sense of lift and near-delicacy for all of its creaminess and amplitude. The pure, long finish is almost ethereal in its suggestions of heady flowers and delicate mineral shadings. This may well be the sort of Chablis some growers and critics have in mind when they say (as if that were to denigrate the wine) “tastes like Cote d’Or,” but if so (and I disagree with the characterization, anyway), I say “bring on more of the same!” Precisely the dramatic range of expression of which Chablis is capable even in a single vintage – and which this year’s Fevre collection so faithfully illustrates – is one of this region’s great strengths. (DS)
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