Bright, light yellow. Tangy, expressive scents of fresh apricot, soft citrus fruits, spices and smoky minerality. At once fat and firm, with lovely calcaire energy giving shape and grip to the middle palate. Hints of ginger and pistachio contribute complexity. Finishes spicy, salty and slightly tannic, ripe and rich but adamantly dry. This premier cru needs some time but has the structure and depth to reward patience. I did not taste this wine last year but today it clearly outshines the Montée de Tonnerre.(ST)
Once again there is a strong phenolic character to the somewhat curious nose that reflects notes of petrol, menthol and orange confit. The lush, round and opulent medium weight plus flavors coat the palate on the moderately firm finish. This is notably less refined than usual though the overt dryness helps to save the balance.
The 2015 Chablis 1Er Cru Vaulorent, which was bottled at the end of March 2017, has an enticing bouquet with scents of white peach, lemon peel and flint that offers impressive focus. The palate is well balanced with attractive apricot, grapefruit and quince notes on the entry. The acidity here is well judged and it exhibits commendable weight and persistence on the sappy finish. This Vaulorent should give a decade's worth of drinking pleasure—a worthy follow-up to the superb 2014. "On 26 May the hailstorm came through from the direction of Saint-Bris and took out three valleys. It was almost 30 kilometers long when normally they are only four or five kilometers," Julien Brocard said. "It lasted around 15 minutes. You just looked out the window and then went straight out into the vineyard, but there was also damage to the cellar roof. The hailstones were two or three centimeters big. Although there were many problems during the 2016 vintage, we are surprised how linear and stable they are now showing. We started the picking around 10 and 11 September." Brocard is a major producer in Chablis with an array of holdings in good volumes (enough to supply the ever popular "The Wine Society" here in the UK). This goes hand-in-hand with consistency across their range, despite the hail. The 2015s are full of well-crafted wines, especially the Fourchaume and Vaudésir.(NM)
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