(entirely destemmed, like the Clos de Bèze): Bright, dark red. Sappy, wild, soil-inflected aromas of black cherry, saline minerality, game and dried rose. Conveys a distinctly cooler impression than the Clos de Bèze but also remarkable thickness and solidity to its dark fruit and soil flavors. Less expressive in the early going and even a bit more monolithic than the Clos de Bèze, but this monumental wine has the structure for a 25-year life in bottle. Perhaps most impressive today on the slowly mounting, unflagging finish.(ST)
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