Never a flashy or bombastic wine, but a Cabernet that has few peers when it comes to precision, complexity and striking depth, the 2015 Volcanic Hill teases with a lovely and layered nose of currants, black cherries, sweet cream and dusty earth with subtle accents of mint all of which are replayed with great articulation in the extremely long flavors that ensue. As sturdy and significantly buttressed by young tannins as it is, the wine shows its maker's penchant for structure and crafting, and, although it is certain to age effortlessly and grow ever more interesting well into its twenties, it should prove to be delicious and hard to resist in its seventh or eighth year.
Aromas of hot pumice, flowers, spices and hints of blackberries. Full-bodied, round and very fruit-forward; yet it holds back. Lovely to drink now and even better in the future.
Strikingly complex and well-defined by firm tannins and loamy earth notes, yet the core of herb-laced dark berry, spice, mocha and espresso flavors should make for an alluring drink in the near future. (JL)
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2013 Chateau Ste. Michelle "Cold Creek Vineyard" Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (Elsewhere $30)