Old Firs is one of the two original vineyard blocks that Ross Cobb’s parents—David and Diane—planted in 1989. The soil here is rich, deep clay loam, which allows the vines to be dry farmed. Still, it’s a cool site, and yields are quite low. This 2012 is closed at first, but with air it becomes translucent, then transparent: refreshing scents of juniper and rosemary, red fruit mingled with earth, the appetizing zestiness of blood oranges. The overall impression is one of cool instensity, the wine’s flavors tied as if by invisible strings to precise, stony tannins. The structure is analogous to the coiled reserve of a young grand cru Burgundy, yet supremely coastal—a brilliant wine that couldn’t come from anywhere else.
The 2012 Pinot Noir Coastlands Vineyard Old Firs Block is the richest and most powerful of these Pinots. A wine of considerable density, that boasts tremendous power and breadth, especially within the context of the house style. Hints of reduction remain, but at the same time, the 2012 has the potential to develop into something truly special. Beams of salinity add energy to the dark red cherry and plum-inflected fruit. (AG)
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