This is also sufficiently reduced to prevent a proper evaluation of the nose. This is a formidably powerful and muscular effort with plenty of punch and minerality on the middle weight plus flavors that are blessed with plenty of dry extract before culminating in a beautifully long and remarkably complex finale. This is both stylish and classy but make no mistake, it's going to need plenty of bottle age to realize its full, and considerable, potential.
Like the Clos Rognet, the 2014 Brûlées chez Méo is very atypically red fruity this year, soaring from the glass in a beautiful blend of red plums, red and black cherries, raw cocoa, duck, dark soil tones, woodsmoke and spicy new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and still a tad adolescent and in the process of absorbing its new oak, with a bit of wood tannin showing today, but also great backend soil drive and vibrancy. The wine should finish up ripely tannic and truly exceptional. (Drink between 2024-2070)
Good red-ruby. Wild aromas of black raspberry, smoky minerality and fresh blood. Dense and energetic, boasting outstanding intensity and clarity to its soil-driven flavors of black raspberry, crushed rock and violet. As concentrated and powerful as this wine is, it's less tough to taste today than the preceding 2014s as its tannins are wonderfully suave and fine-grained. Finishes with terrific tactile minerality and outstanding length. This great premier cru will go on for a long time.(ST)
The 2014 Vosne Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brûlées has a stately, well defined and composed bouquet that opens nicely in the glass. Think of a duchess walking into a ballroom. The palate is medium-bodied with a saline entry. This is clearly nicely composed with good structure, finely balanced with a chalky textured finish that lingers in the mouth. This is a serious Aux Brûlées from Jean-Nicolas Méo. Of course, the pesky drosophila suzukii cared little for reputation when it appeared in Burgundy in the latter half of August, a pre-harvest surprise to keep vignerons on their toes. It just likes warm, humid conditions and some lovely fresh pulpy grapes to feed upon, red rather than white. Speaking to Jean-Nicolas Méo, he suggested that it was actually his German assistant who first discovered the vector in the region. (NM)
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