Cooling mint and high-toned evocations of bittersweet floral perfume (iris, gentian) mingle with struck flint, sea breeze, wet stone and other anticipations of the remarkable diversity of mineral nuances that characterize the polished, vibrant midpalate. Nor is there any lack of luscious primary fruit in the familiar but not for that reason any less alluring guise of white peach and lime. The striking interaction of fruity, floral, and stony, smoky, crystalline, nearly ineffable mineral elements on the finish takes on kaleidoscopic dynamic and complexity, while a strong upwelling of maritime salinity serves to milk the salivary glands. The sense of sheer energy and penetration here goes beyond even that of the old-vines-dominated Stromberg, leaving one’s gullet reverberating like the swelling of an overtone-rich organ pipe. (DS)
Sourced from steep plots with 30- to 40-year-old vines, the 2016 Nahe Riesling Bockenauer Felseneck Spätlese was picked early--just one week after the Kabinett--to preserve the acidity and with perfectly healthy berries at 95° Oechsle. This is a flinty-spicy, stony-mineral Riesling with beautiful herbal and minty notes. Round, very clear and elegant on the palate, this is a lithe, greatly finessed and delicate Spätlese with crystalline clarity and a slatey character. This reminds me of a Wehlener Sonnenuhr or Graacher Himmelreich from the Mosel. This is a highly precise and delicate Spätlese with lingering salinity and crystallization. (SR)
Salty and herbal on the nose. Sweet, intense apricot purity on the palate lifted by a light herbal note. Glorious finesse and perfect balance. GV (JH) 17/20
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