To my palate, after Domaine Lafarge, the Fontaine family’s example of Clos des Chênes is the very finest to be found in all of Burgundy these days. The 2016 here is going to be a stunning wine, as it offers up a fine bouquet of sweet cassis, dark berries, currant leaf, bitter chocolate, a complex base of soil, woodsmoke and a topnote of violets. On the palate the wine is deep, pure and full-bodied, with a superb core of fruit, great transparency, ripe, seamless tannins and a very, very long, complex, very precise and tangy finish. A classic in the making. 2026- 2075.
The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chenes has a mixture of red and black fruit on the crisp, tensile nose, crushed rose petals just underneath. I admire the strictness of these Pommard-like aromas. The palate is soft and pure on the entry with red plum and cranberry fruit, very fine tannin and an almost caressing, silky smooth finish that is a delight. Excellent. (NM)
Enough wood to mention frames the ripe and fresh aromas of plum, black cherry and intriguing spice wisps. The finer yet still overtly powerful middle weight plus flavors possess notably more minerality while delivering fine length on the dusty and sappy finish. Here too there is a hint of dryness but in this case it appears to be more due to a bit of residual sulfur from the bottling than underripe tannins.
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