Fermented in a traditional oak fuder, the 2016 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Trocken (AP 34 17) has a deep, clear, elegant and slightly oaky bouquet with some coconut notes. Full-bodied, round and elegant, this is a firmly structured dry Riesling "grand cru" with rich extract and firm tannins mainly from the oak. The finish is long, complex and salty, but the Mosel slate and finesse are still hidden somewhere between the staves.(SR)
Sourced primarily from the Zeltinger Himmelreich, this estate generic delivers a snappy and refreshing meld of apple and lime firmly underlain with stone. Piquantly nutty, and with intriguing and mouthwatering notes of iodine and mineral salts on the finish, this goes well beyond what one would expect from an inexpensive liter bottling. Slightly more than 12% alcohol reflects a bit of chaptalization and encourages an impression of midpalate stuffing, but there is still some sense of buoyancy. Each time I returned to this ostensibly lowly liter after tasting the collection’s impressive single-vineyard dry Rieslings, its virtues remained undimmed. (DS)
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