The 2016 Graacher Himmelreich Spätlese (AP 08 17) is discreet and smoky on the deep, well-defined nose. Juicy-piquant and salty on the well-structured and refreshingly mineral palate, the Himmelreich is tight and expressive, with the sweetness superbly balanced by the spicy, grippy phenols/minerals. This is a really complex Spätlese that is highly stimulating today and will still be so in 20 or 30 years. (SR)
The 2016 AP #8 Spätlese from the Himmelreich is a classic example of this great terroir in the making. This is less shut down than the Badstube at the present time, and though it is still a young wine, its fine detail is already very much apparent. The bouquet jumps from the glass in a superb blend of pear, a touch of white cherry, slate, violets, bee pollen and a lovely topnote of wild yeasts. On the palate the wine is pure, medium-full and already beautifully filigreed, with a good core, dancing backend balance and a very long, zesty and nascently complex finish. In my experience, it is quite rare that a young Himmelreich Spätlese from the Prüm family will be so expressive early, and I think this speaks well of its future elegance and refinement at maturity. Lovely juice. 2025-2060.
Despite a faintly cheesy, reductive “Mosel stink,” fresh apple and pineapple project a penetratingly fragrant as well as tangy personality to this polished, glossy, buoyant bottling. For now, it lacks the clarity, precision or interest of the corresponding Kabinett, but it’s obviously early days, especially in consideration of the glacial pace at which Prüm wines often evolve. Certainly, though, there is admirable and refreshing sheer length.(DS)
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