The 2016 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru comes from 1.16 hectares of vines spread over two lieux-dits and matured in 60% new oak. The oldest vines here were planted in the 1920s and 1930s. This had a touch of reduction on the nose, but even so, it did not quite have the same intensity as the Echézeaux, at least at the moment. The palate is actually where it’s at: very fine tannin, the new oak a little more vocal here compared to the other grand crus, but there is substantial depth and intoxicating purity toward the slightly candied finish. Give this 5 or 6 years at least. Coquard Loison Fleurot is your new favorite domaine. I know, I know. It’s a bit of a mouthful. Writing this I keep having to check the correct spelling. It was the “surprise package” of over 100 visits tasting 2016s. It was the visit that sent tingles down my spine. It was the visit where I had to maintain my Lady Gaga-approved poker face in order to disguise the thrill. (NM)
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